Paon & Cucu / Asia

Paon and Cucu – Darta’s Heritage | Agus's Future

 

To understand what makes Paon and Cucu truly unique, one must understand Darta.

​

I Gusti Nyoman Darta is not just a man - he is a living legend of Balinese history. Born into a large family, he was given, at the age of seven, to the royal court of Ubud. There, he devoted his entire life to serving the last king of Ubud, Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati - caring for his personal world with quiet loyalty and precision.

 

Even today, at the age of 75, long after the passing of the King, Darta continues his duty - tending to the spiritual and physical legacy of the royal family. His life is a bridge between past and present. Darta was also part of the royal kitchen. He carries within him the knowledge of ancient, almost forgotten recipes - culinary language of the royal court of Ubud.

 

The land and house that now hold Paon and Cucu were gifted to Darta by the King himself. Within the same courtyard today lies Darta’s gallery - he is widely known across Bali for his traditional paintings. His studio and his art remain part of this living place, where culture is not displayed, but lived.

 

Today his son, Agus, continues this lineage. A well-known chef in Ubud, he leads the kitchen of both Cucu and Paon. Through him, the royal cuisine of Ubud moves forward - refined, alive, and untouched by time. He carries this heritage forward - translating the depth of royal cuisine into the present, with clarity and strength.

 

In Paon, the royal cuisine of the Kingdom of Ubud is preserved and kept alive. Here, cooking is done exclusively over wood fire - true to tradition, slow, elemental, uncompromising. Paon is the only place in Ubud where these timeless royal dishes are served in their pure form.

 

The word "paon" means kitchen in Balinese, derived from the Javanese word pawon. But it is more than a place of cooking - it is a spiritual space. In traditional Balinese homes, the paon holds ritual significance, associated with purity, fire, and community.

 

"Cucu", meaning grandchild, carries a different energy. Here, Agus reinterprets classic Balinese dishes - especially "Betutu", one of Bali's most iconic ceremonial dishes. Prepared with a complex blend of spices, wrapped, and slowly cooked for many hours over wood fire, Betutu is less a recipe than a ritual. Every dish is prepared exclusively over firewood, embracing the elemental rhythm of flame, smoke, time, and patience. It embodies the Balinese understanding that the finest things cannot be rushed.

 

At Paon & Cucu, this timeless tradition is elevated to its highest expression. The approach is deeply rooted in heritage, yet infused with a quiet, youthful confidence. A reinterpretation that feels both ancient and unmistakably contemporary.

 

The open terrace above, now home to Cucu, was once Agus’ playground. A place where he imagined, played, and began to shape his path. Today, that same space has transformed into something else - a continuation of his journey, open to others...

 

"Cucu and Paon" are not just restaurants.

They are living stories, lineages. Places where heritage is not preserved - it is lived!